We’ve often marvelled at how British cheesemakers have a knack for taking classic French styles and reimagining them with a distinctively Britannic twist. With passion and ingenuity, they are refreshing these styles for a new generation while keeping the respected tradition of the originals firmly alive.
Baron Bigod is one of the foremost examples of this fascinating era for artisan cheesemaking. This exceptional brie-style cheese, named after Baron Hugh Bigod, the 12-century Earl of Norfolk who was present during the signing of the Magna Carta, is made in the very land he once ruled. The echoes of history surround its production, from the castle ruins overlooking Fen Farm Dairy to the age-old techniques still used in its creation. Yet, Baron Bigod is no mere imitation, but a declaration of British cheesemaking ingenuity, standing proudly in the lineage of the great Brie de Meaux but with an identity all its own.
A British Twist on Brie de Meaux
My first encounter with Baron Bigod was back in 2013 when I was handed a piece from one of its earliest batches. I still remember that moment - the realisation that something special was happening in British cheesemaking. Since then, it has become proof pudding that the UK can stand toe-to-toe with the old masters of France.
Brie de Meaux itself is steeped in legend. First crafted by monks in the Priory of Rueil en Brie during the Middle Ages, it gained royal favour when French emperor Charlemagne tasted it in 774 and demanded regular deliveries. Centuries later, its status was cemented during a famous multinational cheese contest held by the Congress of Vienna in 1815. Auguste-Louis-Charles de La Garde recounted that when brie was passed around to the judges, they immediately announced, “Brie is proclaimed to be the king of cheeses.”
It’s easy to see why when Louis XVI was about to be guillotined by the Revolutionary Assembly to end a thousand years of French monarchy, his final request was wine and Brie de Meaux. This cheese is rich and creamy, with deep flavours of butter and earthy button mushrooms. As it matures, it develops a delicate nuttiness, making it a truly sumptuous experience that has remained a French favourite for centuries.
Baron Bigod embraces this grand legacy with a fresh perspective, shaped by the unique characteristics of the British landscape and the meticulous care of Fen Farm Dairy’s team.
How Baron Bigod is Crafted
Cheesemaking is an alchemy of time, technique and raw materials. Adapted from a traditional Brie de Meaux recipe passed down from a French cheesemakeer, its production is a labour of devotion. Jonny Crickmore and his team at Fen Farm Dairy begin work in the earliest hours so they can collect the freshest possible milk from their Montbéliarde cows - an breed known for producing rich, creamy milk perfect for cheesemaking.
Warm morning milk is gravity-fed into small vats just metres from the milking parlour, where it is mixed with mould cultures before the rennet is added. The cheese then embarks on its slow transformation, maturing for up to eight weeks in carefully-controlled cave-like room, resulting in an unctuous, gold-hued cheese with an earthy aroma.
Baron Bigod is a revelation on the palate. At its core, it retains the rich, buttery and mushroomy depth of Brie de Meaux, but as it melts in the mouth, layers of flavour unfold - an accentuated, almost caramelised aftertaste of pan-roasted parsnips. The texture is equally mesmerising: a silky breakdown oozing over a fresh, citrusy centre, like a river of molten gold carving through chalk-white cliffs.
Fen Farm Dairy itself is a beacon of sustainability. When I paid a visit to the farm last year, I found that they were using solar panels and other green energy sources to power their operations. The notoriously damp British climate is no small challenge for dairy farmers, but innovative techniques such as hay burners help to regulate the farm’s microclimate, ensuring the cows remain healthy and productive all year round.
A National Success Story
Since first being sold in 2013, Baron Bigod has lead the charge of an artisan cheese renaissance. It clinched a Silver medal at the 2022 World Cheese Awards, further cementing its reputation on the global stage. It has become a best-seller on our storefront, a must-have for any serious cheese lover. Whether enjoyed on a cheeseboard at room or temperature or baked to gooey perfect, its versatility and depth make it an essential addition.
Baron Bigod’s success has allowed Fen Farm Dairy to expand, incorporating larger make rooms and advanced milking cloths to maintain the integrity of their craft. And they have even evolved the cheese into new dimensions…
A Truffle-Infused Offshoot
If Baron Bigod wasn’t already decadent enough, the introduction of Baron Bigod with Truffle takes things to another level of splendour. This exquisite spin-off adds a layer of homemade mascarpone infused with the finest black truffles, bringing an intoxicating depth to an already magnificent cheese.
Discover Baron Bigod with Rennet and Rind
If you're as passionate about cheese as we are, Rennet and Rind is your gateway to the best in British cheesemaking. From Baron Bigod to an array of award-winning hard and soft cheeses, we celebrate the artisans who dedicate their lives to the craft. When you choose Rennet and Rind, you support local cheesemakers and indulge in the finest cheese Britain has to offer. Explore our selection and join us in championing the next generation of British cheese.