Americas Hidden Cheddar Reserve

I’ve heard some wild cheese stories in my time, but one that always grabs attention is America’s so-called “hidden” cheddar reserve. The idea that somewhere, deep underground, millions of kilos of cheese are lying in storage sounds like something from a cheesemonger’s fever dream. But, as someone who spends his life carefully maturing British artisan cheeses at Rennet & Rind, I had to dig deeper.

What I found is a tale of dairy industry excess, political intervention, and some rather chilly caves filled with cheddar. It turns out the United States has, for decades, been sitting on a vast stockpile of surplus cheese – much of it stored in underground vaults in Missouri.

Yes, they really do exist. Hidden away in converted limestone caves, over a billion pounds of cheese – much of it cheddar – is stored in vast, climate-controlled warehouses in Springfield, Missouri. These caves maintain a steady 2°C (36°F), preventing spoilage but also effectively halting the maturation process.

The origins of this cheese hoard go back to the late 1970s, when American dairy farmers were struggling. To support them, the US government started buying up excess milk, turning it into cheese, butter, and powdered milk – products that could be stored long-term. By the early 1980s, the government had accumulated over 500 million pounds (225 million kilos) of cheese.

The idea of storing cheese in a cave isn’t unusual. Cheddar itself originates in Britain, taking its name from Cheddar Gorge in Somerset, where cheese was traditionally matured in natural limestone caves. Here at Rennet & Rind, we work with some of the best British artisan cheesemakers, carefully maturing their cheeses to develop complex flavours.

That’s where the American cheese caves fall short. While we mature cheese to enhance its flavour, the US government is simply stockpiling it. At 2°C, the cheese in Missouri isn’t developing character – it’s just on pause.

Unlike America, Britain has never needed a cheddar mountain hidden underground. The closest we ever came was during World War II, when the government introduced rationing and required cheesemakers to produce a standardised “Government Cheddar.”

Thankfully, those days are behind us, and Britain’s cheese industry has returned to its rich, diverse heritage. Today, British cheesemakers – including those we work with at Rennet & Rind – focus on craft, tradition, and proper affinage rather than mass stockpiling.

For me, the biggest takeaway from this bizarre cheese saga is the importance of proper maturation. Cheese isn’t just something to be stored – it’s something to be nurtured.

At Rennet & Rind, we don’t just sell cheese; we carefully select and mature some of the best British artisan cheeses, ensuring they reach their peak flavour before they land on your cheeseboard.

So, next time you tuck into a beautifully aged cheddar, spare a thought for the millions of kilos of cheese sitting in the dark, waiting for a future that may never come. Better yet, support artisan cheesemakers who prioritise flavour over mass production – and if you need help finding the best, well, you know where to look.