It is a farmhouse Gouda made in County Galway, Ireland, by Marion Roeleveld at Killeen Farmhouse Cheese. She produces it as a goat's Gouda from her own herd, plus a cow's milk version made with milk bought from a local farmer. Both are made in roughly 5kg wheels.
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Frequently asked questions about Killeen
What exactly is Killeen?
Why is a goat's milk Gouda unusual?
Because goat's milk is normally turned into small, fresh, lactic cheeses. It is such a delicate milk that it is most often used for smaller, fresher cheeses, which makes a goats' milk Gouda quite unusual. Gouda is traditionally a cow's milk style, so Marion applying a Dutch hard-cheese technique to goat's milk is what makes Killeen stand out.
How did a Dutch cheesemaker end up making it in Ireland?
The origin story is a good one. Marion visited Ireland, fell in love with the place and with a goat farmer called Haske, who farmed around 40 goats in the village of Killeen and supplied milk to the local creamery. She moved over in 2004 and, having grown up on a Dutch dairy farm and studied cheesemaking at agricultural school, began making cheese in the style she knew best: Gouda.
What breed of goat is behind it, and why does it matter?
The milk comes from Saanen goats. The herd has grown to around 200 stark-white Saanen goats, a traditional Swiss breed that, being white, copes poorly with strong sunlight, which suits the Irish climate well. Saanens are prized for high yield and clean, mild milk, which is part of why Killeen carries only a gentle goat character rather than a sharp barnyard one.
What is the curd-washing step and what does it do to flavour?
This is the technical heart of why Killeen tastes the way it does. Gouda cheeses have the curd washed, which removes acidity and gives Killeen its distinctive style: slightly sweet, nutty and floral with a gentle goat flavour. Washing the curd (replacing some whey with warm water) dilutes lactose before the bugs can turn it all to acid, so you end up with a sweeter, suppler, more rounded paste rather than a tangy one
How does the flavour change as it ages?
It moves along a clear arc. At three months it is fresh, clean and milky with a slight lactic note in the finish; it picks up more fruitiness up to around five months, then gradually turns nutty. Taken further, aged to a minimum of nine months the sweetness deepens and toasty roasted-hazelnut flavours come through. That is the proteolysis and lipolysis doing their work over time.
How far can it actually be matured?
Wider than you might expect for a goat cheese. Killeen Goat Gouda is made in 5kg wheels and matured for between 2 and 12 months, with the cow version on a similar window. The fact it holds together and keeps improving over that range tells you it is a properly made, well-structured wheel, not a cheese that collapses or dries out early.
There is a nice affinage story attached to it. What is it?
Yes, and it is one affineurs love. The Courtyard Dairy's Andy originally went looking for a new white cheese for a specific Gulf export customer, a Sultan, but the deal fell through, so he aged the cheese to see what would happen and was delighted with the result. They now age it in-house for a minimum of nine months, taking delivery at three months, so it develops far greater depth. A good example of a cheese finding its best self in the cave rather than at the make.
Is it any good in competition?
Consistently, for years. Killeen was crowned Supreme Champion at the Irish Cheese Awards three times, in 2011, 2014 and 2019. It has also taken gold medals at the British Cheese Awards and the World Cheese Awards. More recently, a five-month aged version, Killeen Goat Mature, won Best Irish Cheese at the British & Irish Cheese Awards 2025 against nearly 600 entries.
Anything to flag on allergens or handling?
Two practical points. First, it contains egg as well as milk: the ingredients list goat's milk, salt, cultures, rennet and lysozyme, which is egg-derived. Lysozyme is a hen's-egg-white preservative used in many continental hard cheeses to control late blowing, so it is worth knowing for anyone with an egg allergy. Second, on serving, it is best brought up to room temperature in a cool spot before eating to let the aroma open up, while avoiding a hot kitchen.